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Thread: alternators

  1. #1
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    Having problems with a 1995 120" Lincoln-US Custom Coach with 45000 miles.

    Replaced 160 amp alternator (with rebuilt one) for the 3rd time in 3 months.
    New voltage regulator.
    Shortened belt.
    Installed new isolator & voltage regulator again.
    Battery is 3 months old.

    1st time alternator locked up.
    2nd time battery went dead slowly & after having everything fixed & checked out, it lasted about 20 minutes & battery was totally dead.
    3rd time the car ran for 6 hours before slowly losing all power/lights & it sound like bearings are gone in the alternator.

    Any suggestions? Please let me know if you need additional info.


    Thanks!!

  2. #2
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    Buy A new Alternator that is an OEM. Even if you buy a new non-OEM chances are the altenator will go bad within the year.

  3. #3
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    Nicole,

    As soon as we buy a new car, we take the alternator that's on it off and keep it as a spare. We replace it with a heavy duty alternator made by AmpTech that is usudally used in ambulances. You might try a web search for AmpTech. If you can't find it, e-mail me and I will find out where we get them from. My fleet manager does the purchasing of these and I'm not sure exactly where they come from.

  4. #4
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    <BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by nicole:

    Replaced 160 amp alternator (with rebuilt one)
    New voltage regulator.
    Shortened belt.
    Installed new isolator & voltage regulator again.
    Battery is 3 months old.
    <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

    I will only repeat that I hope you are using OEM parts. The lifetime warranty parts, from varios vendors, have a lifetime warranty for a reason, they put such cheap parts in them that they do not mind giving you three or four of them in a year.

    I do not know what you mean by shortened belt, If that actually means a short belt than that can be one reason for your bearing failure, too much load on your belt. Or do you mean a smaller pully on the alternator, that's another disaster.

    Check the web site below, they build some quality alternators, but a tad expensive. They sell adjustable ones as well and one that have a auto high idle circuit to get the reves up if voltage is low.

    From Wrangler NW Power Products
    Web: http://www.wranglernw.com

    General Alternator Information
    Before changing alternator consider the following:
    1. All high performance alternators require an upgraded output charge cable. Use 2GA for 120/l40
    amp units - use l/0GA for 140/l60/l80/225 units. The charge cable is the large cable connected to
    the output stud on the alternator & the other end attached to the POS post on the MAIN battery.

    2. Check for worn out or undersized battery/batteries. Load test batteries to determine condition.
    Lousy batteries wreak havoc on a charging system. Poor batteries shorten an alternators life.

    3. Replace frayed wires & undersized battery cables. Remove alt clamp on battery cable repair
    ends. Replace with Heavy Duty, high quality parts all available from Wrangler. Check out
    Wrangler’s custom crafted fine strand copper cables. Upgraded cables will give the electrical
    system a giant boost in performance & reliability.

    4. BELTS - BELTS - BELTS - BELTS – BELTS
    The importance of installing PREMIUM quality belts can’t be over emphasized. Loose, Worn Out,
    glazed belts won’t handle a high performance charging system. We recommend GOODYEAR HI-MILER
    or GATES Green stripe “MOULDED NOTCH” belts for replacement of ‘V type belts.

    5. IMPORTANT BELT TIGHTENING TIPS:
    Install NEW belts - run motor 15/20 min. - re-tighten to take up initial belt stretch. DON’T PUT
    OFF THIS CRITICAL STEP !!!!!! - CHECK BELT TENSION OFTEN !!! Slipping belts generate
    excessive heat at the pulley, heat transfers to the bearing & breaks down the lubricant, causing
    early bearing failure, When belts become glazed replace them immediately. The alternator output
    voltage will decrease when belts slip. Slipping belts are the #1 cause of low voltage charging
    conditions !!!!

    Good Luck!!
    Steve Walker
    steve@capriceshop.com

  5. #5
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    Please contact Power-Tec at 1-800-897-2134
    Former ford employees have the solution for the problem you are experiencing.

  6. #6
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    Had a 1996 Lincoln 120 that made us crazy with replacing alternators (replaced 6 over a period of months). Final result was that a bad battery was causing the problem. Load checking the battary never showed any problem-always checked out O.K.
    but the battery would periodically short out
    and destroy the alternator. Finally found it by
    leaving the limo run for an extended time - heard engine start to die due to loss of power - checked battery immediatey - found it was bad. Replaced
    battery - problems stopped.

    For what its worth, company policy is that when a limo returns from an extended run, the battary always gets placed on a charger and topped off.
    Also, we continually reiterate to our drivers
    2 items - 1. "If nobody is in the back of the limo shut the rear electrical system down" 2. "Don't
    idle the vehicle excessively".

    Seems to have reduced our alternator problems.

  7. #7
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    Nicole, sorry to tell you, but the problem ewith your car is that US Coach built it.

  8. #8
    Guest

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    Sound like if your bearings, keep wearing out, check if the altenator and bracket are lined up properly. Slightly off can cause serious problems. Use only oem belts, they do stretch out. A stretched belt can seem like the altenator is not charging, but the problem is the belt. Try when you have a problem to really rank down on the tension and see what happens.

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