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Thread: How to: 95 - 97 Town Car Heater Core - Blend door Replacement

  1. #16
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    [QUOTE]Originally posted by Digger:
    Before removing the box you will need to remove some screws in order to pull the dash back as far as possible on the right side. Remove the lower-right dash nut that holds the dash to the door jamb piller. Then (behind the glove box) there are two 11 mm screws holding a dash brace that need to be removed. The dash does not need to be removed from the car, just pulled back enough to let the heater box come out the bottom.


    Digger
    I used the info and it was very infomative. But, I tried using this on a 1999 and was not able to separate the dash from the firewall to get the heater core out. I could not find any 11 mm screws behind the glove box to remove. Could this be the angled brace on the driers side? Do you have any info on the 1998 and 1999 models TC. Everything else was great on your instructions.

    Thank you
    Paulo

  2. #17
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    Sorry, I haven't had to do this yet on anything newer than a '97 TC so I have no answers for you. Glad it helped to some point though.

  3. #18

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    Digger,

    Great info! I'm sure we'll look this up some day. Although I don't have any pre-98 limos, would this be the same or similar for 98-02 and 03+ TCs?

    Salicite,

    Those are some good skills! You should make a how to thread on those also!
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  4. #19
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    Originally posted by Digger:
    Ahh, what a fun job. It's not as hard as I thought it would be but still took me about 4.5 hours from start to finish. To make this job easier you may want to remove the passenger seat and the glove box.

    Tools needed:
    11 mm socket (dash bracket mounts)
    10 mm socket (under-dash nuts on heater box)
    5/16 socket/driver for heater hoses
    6 mm socket (for floor box)

    I am posting these pics because info on the internet is limited for TC heater core replacement, hopefully this helps someone else when they need to replace one.

    If you find the instructions on the internet they will tell you to remove three nuts under the wiper motor, these do NOT need to be removed. The only things under the hood that need to be removed are the two heater hoses and one nut just to the left (toward driver side) of the two heater hoses.

    Under the dash you will need to disconnect the group of vacuum hoses from the diaphrams shown in the pictures. This has a master disconnect and is easy to get to. Also you need to remove the floor heater box, it's just a small disapation box to direct heat under the carpet to the rear seating area. This requires removal of two small screws (6 mm ?) and one push-pin.

    There are two nuts on the bottom of the heater box right where the interior carpet stops under the dash, remove these.

    Remove the electronic box attached to the heater box by sliding it upward and pulling two connectors.

    Before removing the box you will need to remove some screws in order to pull the dash back as far as possible on the right side. Remove the lower-right dash nut that holds the dash to the door jamb piller. Then (behind the glove box) there are two 11 mm screws holding a dash brace that need to be removed. The dash does not need to be removed from the car, just pulled back enough to let the heater box come out the bottom.

    Once these things are disconnected you can pull the box straight back to clear the heater tubes through the firewall and clear the top stud. Before pulling the box all the way out you will need to reach up on top of the box and disconnect the wiring from the blend door (shown in pics).

    Now the fun part, getting the box out from under the dash. This will take a lot of playing, twisting and pulling but trust me, it WILL come out.

    Re-assemble in the reverse order.


    just wanted to say thanks for the information. i am working on a 94 town car and for the most part these directions where right on. i did have to remove a couple of more items, but everything else was right on. didnt even have to pull the plenum all the way out. thanks again, phil in georgia

  5. #20

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    Nice posts Digger !
    Dean Schuler

  6. #21
    Senior Member Limo Padawan Mr.Frugality's Avatar
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    Nice instruction's digger, you seem to type as fast as me 50wpm is it, eh? ...lol May I add that if your replacing a 1998-2002 heater core, buy only OEM, heater core top and bottom are made of plastic and are glued onto core, yes I said glued (with a strong adhesive). Some aftermarket (made in ch*na) cores go bad real quick (friend had a 1998 town car that went through 3 heater cores in one year. Turned out to be a defect in the adhesive/setting to the core.
    If your on a tight budget, and do not need heat, goto HELP section at auto part store (no don't ask for help..hehe look in isles for a section with product's labeled "HELP"), look for heater core adpter/hose adapter, something along that line, it will look like a black plastic tube just a smidge smaller in size than the hose, disconnect heater core hose's from firewall (2), connect hose adapter using two hose clamp's on each end tightened hard. This will get you through the summer month's and if it's a stretch, you will not lose heat for rear passenger's (ok, to all stretch owner's out there: don't leave your driver's cold to save on heater core bill's..lol).
    Also, I found a trick to remove the 95-97 "blend door acturator". When I owned before I retired three 95-97 stretch's, I was tired of taking dash down every time actuator needed replacing, found that if you open glove door all way by pushing on each end while open (removal not necessary), take a tiny (no larger than a normal sized index finger, and no, I am not going to distinguish what a normal size is, this you must figure..) closed-end wrench with a slight angle (if you can't find one with a slight angle-trick: take straight one to a vise, tap end with sledge hammer to make a slight bend at end, this trick can be used to make custom tool's) that fit's the two bolt head's on top (forget which size exactly), hopefully you have a thin arm for this step (if not, find one-this is the only way it work's) stretch arm way up on top of blend door/heater core assembly, carefully/gently lock top of wrench to bolthead, loosen, reapeat (only get 1/4 turn each time, not many thread's on bolt), repaeat for second bolt that is near you, take long thick flathead screwdriver and gently pry in between actuator and blend door housing upward twisting screwdriver SLOWLY while prying, the actuator will "pop" up breaking the two rear plastic tabs on box (that's ok, box is bad anyway's-also you don't need all four bolt's when installing-I used only two that could be tightened-never had a problem), but leaving two rear bolt's behind (these bolt's must be removed before installation), remove actuator, now trick here is patience, take new/used actuator on top exactly where old one was making sure tab/arm on bottom is lined with door, with a pair of long needle nose plier's hold bothead and carefully "feel" for hole, let go of plier's so bolthead fall's in place, take same tiny wrench/tighten (but don't overtighten, snug is ok-box and related part's are made from plastic-easy to crack). Done. You just saved about 2 1/2-3 hour's. For those who still own the ole' boat's, good luck!!!
    And digger if your still reading this, nice pic's, please tell me you didn't rip that one out for this post....lol
    A true leader seeks the leader in others

  7. #22
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    Heres a tech article for the 97 as well

    97 Blend door replacement
    Steve Walker ppvsteve@gmail.com

  8. #23

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    How could I possibly open the blend door without replacing it?  I figure I,d open it in the winter an close it in the summer manually..

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