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Thread: Fuel Pump Replacement on 2006 LTC

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
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    Houston/TX
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    Default Fuel Pump Replacement on 2006 LTC

    Just changed the fuel pump on my 2006 yesterday because it's been making a loud whistling noise since I got it. The whistle could be heard from 10 feet away (I have good ears, but it was still too loud). So instead of waiting for it to fail and leaving me and a car full of people stranded on the side of the road, I changed it with an OEM replacement from Tasca (good prices on factory parts, fast and reasonable shipping, no taxes).

    Here are my notes:
    - Let the gas level in the car get down to less than a 1/4 tank before starting the project.
    - I didn't remove the fuel tank like the shop manual recommends, and after doing it, I wouldn't recommend removing the tank. It doesn't make it easier overall.

    - Removing and replacing the actual fuel pump is the easy part. The hard part is the routing of the 2 cables and releasing their connectors.
    - The main connector is a tough one, and even if you plan to remove the fuel tank, it has to be released before you remove the tank, so that's why I don't recommend dropping the tank.
    - The main connector is very hard to reach because it's on top of a cross member and sandwiched by the body of the car. You have to do everything by feel to try and release the connector pushing the tab and pulling on the cable with very little room for your hands.
    - The second connector (for the evap system), it also tough to remove. I took off the driver's side rear wheel to get access to the connector since it's on the top of the tank sandwiched tight between the tank and the body of the car. I finally released it by sticking a small screwdriver in a slot in upper left side of the connector and pushing down on the release tab. If you remove the tank, this part would be easy, but removing the tank is much more work that fiddling with the screw driver until you get the connector released.
    - I cut the wire to fully remove the second connector because there isn't room to get it out since its routed inside the tank straps. Since the old, noisy, 110K mile pump was going in the garbage, cutting wires was not an issue.
    - The main connector is very hard to get out of the frame. I didn't want to cut it out because I needed to see how I would get the new one in. There is a small indent in the frame cross member where the connector will just barely pass if you orient it perfectly.
    - The pump itself was easy to unscrew and remove even with the exhaust in place. You definitely don't need to remove the exhaust like others threads on other forums have advised.
    - Routing the long wire for the evap connector can be done around the tank instead of over it and using tie wraps to make sure it stays secure. The only reason it goes over the tank from the factory is because that was easier for them in the assembly line.
    - When I removed the old fuel pump, the amount of highly flammable gasoline fumes was intense. Make sure you don't have anything around that could ignite them (power tools, shop lights, static electricity, etc). I disconnected both batteries to be safe.
    - The pump comes out by lifting it and up and over the other side of the axle and then down.

    Overall, it probably took me a couple of hours due to figuring out releasing cable connectors and routing the wires. If I had to do it again, I could do it within half an hour of jacking up the car.

    The OEM pump assembly was about $330. A lot more than the other brands on Rock Auto, but I'd rather have OEM.

    Fuel Pump 2.jpgFuel Pump 1.jpg
    Last edited by FamilyLimo; March 14th, 2014 at 06:17 PM.

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