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Thread: Alternator died, best replacement? 1999120" LTC ECB dual alternator

  1. #1

    Default Alternator died, best replacement? 1999120" LTC ECB dual alternator

    Well, it appears my alternator died, all of my electronics shut off and then the car still drove for a little but the battery had to keep getting jumped and charged for the car to work for another few minutes.

    I'm pretty sure its the alternator but does that mean that both of my alternators are dead? I also tried to push and hold the battery button on the main console but it seemed like it did nothing, even when I tried to turn the car on (it wouldn't start just like the battery was dead regardless of holding the battery button or not.)

    That being said, I did add some stuff like a subwoofer, a cd player, a TV to the car, and perhaps all these accessories put too much strain on the current dual alternator setup, or perhaps only one alternator worked to begin with and now none do. I simply don't know what the setup is like for dual alternators (dual battery) so my question is, what should I have my mechanic look at to test it, and what kind of "bulletproof" alternator can I get to make sure it doesn't go out again in another 120k miles.

    Thanks for any advice anyone can give.

    -Ace

  2. #2

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    Not likely both alt. quit at the same time, there should be a silanoid under the hood that connects the two battery's witch your battery button should control. You will have to use same alt. because of bolt pattern

  3. #3
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    Have your mechanic replace the main alternator, check the secondary alternator and check the secondary battery. Since the battery button didn't do anything, odds are, the secondary battery has been dead for awhile and you just didn't know it. As-for the battery button, when the main battery is charged you should hear the solonoid click when you hit the battery button, no click and that may be bad too (assuming all wiring is good).

  4. #4

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    Definitely sounds like a bad auxiliary alternator and most likely fryed the battery, Not sure about ECB but on my Krystal the "Battery Jump" button has a small spade fuse next to the solenoid, This was blown at one point on mine making the button inoperable. You should hear a click when you press the button.

  5. #5
    Member skywaves's Avatar
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    If you are looking for good alternators, trying going to MTG (www.mtgparts.com) and looking at their replacement 160-amp alternators.
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  6. #6

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    The 2nd battery was dead when I purchased the car, so I replaced it. So I assume the 2nd battery is fine, if it's dead again then chances are the 2nd alternator is also dead?

    Does the 2nd alternator connect to the primary power system also (so both alternators would need to be dead in order to have the above situation happen?) Or is the 2nd alternator specifically to only charge the 2ndary battery?

    As far as hearing a click when I press the button, you mean a click other than when the button gets pushed down? A click under the hood somewhere?

    The battery button should work all the time? Even if the primary is dead? Or does the 2ndary battery button only work when the primary battery is charged (seems useless then?)

    Where exactly should this solenoid be that I should check?

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by skywaves View Post
    If you are looking for good alternators, trying going to MTG (www.mtgparts.com) and looking at their replacement 160-amp alternators.
    Doesn't look like MTG parts has any details for this product on their website as far as pricing and product ordering, just a text blurb about it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AceLimo View Post
    Doesn't look like MTG parts has any details for this product on their website as far as pricing and product ordering, just a text blurb about it.
    It must just be tempoarily down. I just use the Ford factory alternators. Just make sure you get at least the same amps you have on there now.
    Jerry Thomas

  9. #9

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    Yea, I see a few 200 amp ones on eBay which is fine, but realistically, I'd prefer to buy something that I know will last a long time but also have 160+ amps. Reliability and long term life is more important to me than if its 130 or more AMPs, it also sounds like both of my alternators are dead, not just one, but I'll have a mechanic check and confirm that.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Fairfax Limo's Avatar
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    It would be really odd for both alternators to go out at the same time. Do you have a multi-meter? You can check the voltage output of the alternators yourself real quick. They should put out around 14 volts.
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    Member ROADMAX's Avatar
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    A simple test to do is jump start engine and place a screwdriver near the rear of the alternator rear bearing housing . There should be a strong magnetic pull while it is in charge mode. Another test with engine running and accesories on like headlites and ac, disconnect positive cable from battery, use a rag to sheild sparks, if ur motor still runs alternator should be ok and problems may be elsewhere.

  12. #12

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    I would stick with the stock 130 amp. alt never had much luck with the 200amp alt. and unless you have an awful lot light's,ac unit's etc.it's not needed.second alt. should have a wire going to the back of the alt. this wire need's at least 7 volt's in order for the alt. to charge.

  13. #13

    Default Will test it today.

    Will do all the testing today, but Is it possible that one alternator was out for a long time and I never knew?

  14. #14
    Senior Member Fairfax Limo's Avatar
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    There is no way it could be out for a long time without knowing it. Without the alternator, the engine or the rear compartment would lose power within I'd say less than an hour max. You would have had to use your battery solenoid button to bridge the batteries to continue with power.
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  15. #15

    Default test results

    I just confirmed both alternators were dead (neither producing more than .5 volts or higher. That being said, I did check the wiring, it seems that both alternators are on the same circuit, meaning when the main battery is connected its showing 12 volts on both alternator red cables (without the alternator connected). So this leads me to believe the wiring for both alternators are setup to charge the main battery and supply power to the vehicle? Is this correct, and if so, is this the normal way dual alternators are supposed to be setup? If not could it be possible that the previous owner somehow rigged the switch to always be on so the 2nd alternator is always sending power to the main car?

    When the car died all the electronics died including the ones in the back and the headlights and all.

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