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Thread: Trans Problems, I think!

  1. #16
    Senior Member Wade Randolph's Avatar
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    <BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by birmlimo:
    It was bought converted along with a 120" as well.

    The dealer told me today that there was a 3 year 100,000 mile warranty that was bought and put on the car by the dealer that sold it.

    That expired October 30 , 2004. The rear end went out 2 weeks ago.

    So I guess technically there was a 36 month 100,000 mile warranty on it.

    I was under the impression that the warraty kicked in after you took deleivery of the vehicle. We bought it in late December 2001. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

    The warranty is supposed to start when you take delivery of the vehicle.

  2. #17

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    Latest update :

    Ford has gotten involved. They show that the builder was a part of the QVM program , it is the 418 chassis. The start date of the warranty is suspicious , and it should have the extended warranty attached. ( no fleet number required )

    The builder left the QVM program and built and sold many more cars before Ford found out.

    This just happens to be the time when mine was built , so they are not sure if mine was done within the program or outside of it.

    The car and it's 120" counterpart were not registered by the builder.

    At this point Ford told the dealer to give me my car back , do not charge me and they will investigate.

    It seems that Ford and I both got burnt by this builder , and now we'll see how well Ford stands behind their program and the customers like me.

    If they cover this , and extend me the full QVM warranty due on both cars , they have a customer for life.

    If not , I see a few 300 C's in my future. ( 140" )

    I have 5 Ford products out of 13 right now , 4 GM , 4 Daimler Chrysler.

    I will let you all know.

  3. #18
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    Update: Took the Limo out the next day to try and recreate the problem. After about 40 miles of taking off and on ramps and getting up to 70mph the problems started to show. Under wide open throttle (WOT) going up an on ramp the limo would not quickly shift from first to second or second to third. Engine would just stay at redline reving for 4-5 seconds before it would drop hard into the next gear. Driving the limo normally (Not WOT) with the A/C on and windows up you would not really notice this so I figure the driver that the 40MPH problem occoured with failed to feel or hear this problem of the car not shifting for most of the day. So the problem just got worse over time until it would not even go over 40MPH.

    We Did finally decide to take it to the dealer (we were hoping for a quick fix as we had runs lined up for it) they tried to recreate it but could not, put it on thier computer and found nothing. Ended up doing a trans service. I suspect the Fluid was the problem as it was just to long since we had chaged it at least 50K miles (Was wrong on 40K before). Thinking that when the trans was cool the fluid had enough viscosity to to the job but as it became heated it lost some viscosity and was unable to push throught the passages and activate everything it should. No significant debri in the pan.

    > joel yee
    > 77,000 miles limo should still be under warranty
    > take to dealer and let lincoln worry about it.
    > LA Limousines (David) I agree with Joel. Warranty issue. It is QVM is it not?
    Yea Still under warranty but our local lincoln dealer refuses (or does not have the equipment) to work on our limos so we have to drive about 45 minutes away to the nearest competent one. WE usually like to gather up about 3 or 4 problems for them to takle at once.

    > sa59
    > The cost will not be too much try changing the transmission filter
    > and autogearbox fluid as a starting point and go from there,let us
    > know how you get on.
    Thats what we did, all we could do. I would have prefered they actually found a problem. Now we do not know if this thing will act up again, so for a few months we will have to limit this car to local runs and see what happens. Hate to have it break down on the way to vegas!!

    > Wade Randolph
    > It could also be a malfuction in the traction control. We have had this
    > problem before a few years ago. The traction control thinks one wheel
    > is turning faster than the other and the car wont get up to interstate speeds.
    Wade we do not have a traction control button in our limos, does that necessarily mean we do not have traction controll, or is there an internal TC built in?

    > JHJ
    > Another likely possibility is that the transmission electronics are preventing
    > the tranmission from matching the engine revs either by preventing one or
    > more upshifts. A number of cars have this feature as a protective feature
    > when the electronics sense a problem. Sometimes all they have to do is
    > re-set the control, but a quick computer read-out at a dealer will probably
    > give you and answer.
    This sounded most likely to me JHJ but they found noting no codes no nothing.

    Thanks for all the helpful advise and Good Ideas!!! Got to keep up with that maintinance!
    Steve Walker ppvsteve@gmail.com

  4. #19
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    Further Update: When this problem developed some drivers also reported a Rotten Egg smell coming from the middle of the car. After the Trans service the smell kept coming back. Back to the dealer and they replace the Catalytic Converters. Could a blocked Cat have been the source of this problem? And if it was why did the problem only presdent it's self after 40 miles, wouldn't it be bad right from mile 1? I have always thought a bad cat would make your engine run bad. and ours was running fine, just not shifting?

    Who Knows!!
    Steve Walker ppvsteve@gmail.com

  5. #20
    Member Limo Padawan
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    Actually your symptom matched my problems exactly to what I had with some FORD 15 passenger vans. I swore that it was a transmission. (after going through 3 other transmissions on the same van I thought I was an expert...Don't get me started on the FORD fiasco) Anyway, the computer adjusts the engine parameters and transmission parameters based on lots of different sensors. One of which is the airflow through the catalytic converter. In my case my MAF and o2 sensors failed but didn't trip the check engine light. When they trip they lock into either a rich or lean condition. My ran rich, dumped too much fuel into the catalytic converter and ruined it. When it would cool down and you would wait the fuel in the converter would evaporate, the converter would cool and the restriction would lessen making it seem to act normally.

  6. #21
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    Thats interesting, but everything with this dumb thing is interesting!!

    So this would mean there is something wrong with my MAF, O2 sensor, or some other sensor that when the engine gets warm starts to screw up and send to much fuel. So even if I get new cats it will eventually screw up again because this faulty sensor was not caught and replaced the first time, Correct?

    Well I will get it back and drive it like a banchi and see what happens!
    Steve Walker ppvsteve@gmail.com

  7. #22
    Member Limo Padawan
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    when acatalytic converter faills there is normally a reason for this you need to find out the cause or probably have repeat problem.A cat can fail for anumber of reasons eg wrong fuel internal failure engine misfiring causing unburnt fuel to enter cat. cats can alo get blocked,Still want to know the outcome. thanks

  8. #23
    Member Limo Padawan
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    It doesn't necessarily mean that this is the case, however I would definitely want them to check it out or give you a reason as to why the catalytic converter went bad. If they can't or really won't tell you they are not doing their job. Converters typically don't go bad "just because" and replacing it without fixing the original problem will mean replacing it again later.

    So this would mean there is something wrong with my MAF, O2 sensor, or some other sensor that when the engine gets warm starts to screw up and send to much fuel. So even if I get new cats it will eventually screw up again because this faulty sensor was not caught and replaced the first time, Correct?

    Well I will get it back and drive it like a banchi and see what happens![/QUOTE]

  9. #24
    Senior Member Limo Padawan
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    Well, the MAF seems to cause lots of trouble and, even worse, has certain conditions that do not trigger the engine alarm light! By reading the codes with a scanner you may find a "lean or rich fuel condition on both cylinder banks" which is a good indication of this problem.

    We have gone through that several times and it always turned out, that the MAF wires just were dirty. Reason was that the air filter cartridge was not seated properly (or maybe the garage used a replacement that didn't fit the housing exactly) and thus disposed off all kind of dust on the heat wires.

    Easy solution: carefully clean wires with brake cleaner (soaking the wires in salt water is better as it may not harm the wires as much) and dry carefully with clean air. Then reset the (maybe not triggered) alarm by disconnecting the battery for a minute or so and the electronics will enter the fuel economy learning mode for the next 20 miles or so; just drive the car as you would normally.

    We have done this twice during last year already and it always helped .... Another good hint: have your mechanic replace the special screws at the MAF sensor housing with regular Philips or hex screws so you can do this yourself. And be careful with the O-ring when reinserting the sensor!

    However - good luck!

    Rupert
    www.amadeuslimo.com

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