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Thread: LTC no start when warm

  1. #16
    Senior Member LIMOJESS's Avatar
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    Might also be a bad PCM (computer).

  2. #17
    Senior Member Cedar Mill Limousine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LIMOJESS View Post
    Might also be a bad PCM (computer).
    I would take it to a Ford Dealer - they will probably be able to diagnose it in 1/2 hour.
    Rich Rottier
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  3. #18
    Senior Member Jon Hook's Avatar
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    Ya, I may take it in. The problem is that the issue is very intermittant. I wonder if it leaves some code behind or something. I'll see what they can find out.
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  4. #19

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    Normally its fuel or spark.

  5. #20
    Senior Member Cedar Mill Limousine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Limo-Service View Post
    Normally its fuel or spark.
    Yes, it would be fuel or spark, but there are many things that are involved with the fuel/spark portion of the motor. Ford dealers have better diagnostic equipment than most other shops. A friend had a '07 LTC 140" that would try to die out and then rev. Took it to 3 different shops. Every time he would get it back it would do it again. Every time the shop claimed they knew what it was. All 3 shops were reputable shops. Finally, he took it to a dealer and it was his PCM.
    Rich Rottier
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  6. #21

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    If you can't find it with a scanner try the basic checks first. If it doesn't happen all the time going to the dealer is most likely a waste of time, this is coming from a x ford line tech. On the 4.6 it could be some thing as simple as the coil on plug connectors. Could it be the PCM yep but not the first place I would check. Ford dealers have better Dio Equip thats funny. Going to the dealer is the last place I would go.

  7. #22
    Senior Member Jon Hook's Avatar
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    Interesting. I just cleaned up the battery terminals and took apart the power distribution box. It was a bit corroded inside there. Sprayed it out and replaced a wire that looked pretty rough. Ironicaly it is for the fuse that controls the PCM/Fuel injectors. I'll see where that takes me.
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  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Limo-Service View Post
    If you can't find it with a scanner try the basic checks first. If it doesn't happen all the time going to the dealer is most likely a waste of time, this is coming from a x ford line tech. On the 4.6 it could be some thing as simple as the coil on plug connectors. Could it be the PCM yep but not the first place I would check. Ford dealers have better Dio Equip thats funny. Going to the dealer is the last place I would go.
    A scanner would be useless in this case; a bi-directional computer would be the only way to truely diagnois this without just throwing parts at it. It would not be a coil because they are separate and unless they all went bad when they were warm the engine would still run with a bad pack.

    Rich is correct with his advice about having a dealer diagnois, or take it to a shop that has a computer that can "force" your computer. But, from what you have posted, it seems as though you are much closer to figuring out the issue. Have fun with it and remember--extra parts at the end of a job is just something that won't fail in the future

  9. #24
    Senior Member Jon Hook's Avatar
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    Oh, I am not opposed to taking it in to the shop if I have to. Just that the problem is an intermittent one and I know with these kinds of things, often, if they can't duplicate the problem, they can't really fix it. So that is why I thought I would post here and see what response I got from fellows in the know. You guys have been very helpful by the way.
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  10. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by Limo Insurance King View Post
    A scanner would be useless in this case; a bi-directional computer would be the only way to truely diagnois this without just throwing parts at it. It would not be a coil because they are separate and unless they all went bad when they were warm the engine would still run with a bad pack.

    Rich is correct with his advice about having a dealer diagnois, or take it to a shop that has a computer that can "force" your computer. But, from what you have posted, it seems as though you are much closer to figuring out the issue. Have fun with it and remember--extra parts at the end of a job is just something that won't fail in the future
    Yea it wouldn't be a coil, the number one problem on the 3.9 when you have a hot no start...... just couldn't happen on the 4.6 because...... all. Yea I took the time to go back and read my post in this thread I'm amazed at all the parts I suggested throwing at this problem. Go figurer.

  11. #26

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    Also it doesn't have to be a hot or cold problem it could be the immobilizer which is on no start mode.

  12. #27
    Senior Member Jon Hook's Avatar
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    In case anyone is reading this later and wondering how it turned out. I think I fixed it (fingers crossed).

    I think there may have been 2 problems. First, I think the Idle Air Control Valve was poor. Once I changed it, things got much better. Also, before I changed it, I would be able to start the car by holding the gas part way down as suggested earlier in this thread.

    But then, it still happened the odd time where the car would not start. It never ever quit on me once it was running. Once or twice it did actually not start when it was cold - which was weird. The problem before was always after it got up to temp. In any case, I started poking around and pulled the main fuse box. Well, the underside of that was fairly corroded. I also noticed a poor wire. Had a crack in the sheathing and corrosion in the wire. When I pulled on it, I actually ripped the wire apart (probably 14 guage, you don't normally rip it apart by hand). Anyhow, I traced it and it was going to a 20 A fuse for the Fuel injectors. I ran a new wire and an external fuse (you can't really do much under the fuse box). Car has not quit on me since.

    I guess we will see if that was it.
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  13. #28

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    Keep us posted. Nice to hear all is good.

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