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Thread: LTC no start when warm

  1. #1
    Senior Member Jon Hook's Avatar
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    Default LTC no start when warm

    Now I bet someone is going to read this thread and know exactly what is wrong with my car.

    I have a 2002 LTC sedan, high mileage. Just got it recently and trying to build work for it. Anyhow, if I come out in the morning (or whenever it has sat for a while), it starts right up. Touch the key, drive the car. Now, once I drive it for say 1/2 hour, if I turn it off, I can't get it to restart. Last week I drove a couple hours down the highway, stopped for breakfast, came back out maybe 30 mins later and car no start. Now, if you would let it cool for a few hours, it would start (breakfast wasn't that long).

    So here is what it does, you get in, turn the key, it starts, revs up, dies. It will do that a couple of times and then it won't start at all. When it revs up, you can't control throttle or anything. It doesn't stay high idle or anything, just starts, revs up and dies in a matter of a couple of seconds.

    I am guessing something is getting warm while driving and isn't resetting once I turn off the car or something is still warm and not getting a reading of some sort in the system.

    Any thoughts where to start looking?

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  2. #2
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    you should start looking for a good mechanic that does side jobs for a good price, you're going to need one in this business even with a new vehicle.

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    Try cleaning the idle control valve located on rear of engine.

    http://www.ehow.com/how_4763388_clea...rol-valve.html


    Similiar to this picture.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Jon Hook's Avatar
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    Thanks Joel, I will start there. I am thinking it is either something like that that controls fuel flow or some electronic module somewhere that is warming up and then not reading correctly. Just my hunch. Thanks.

    I do have a good mechanic. I have a fleet of pickup trucks for another business I own so I have contacts around town, no problem there. I am pretty handy myself and have a nice shop to work in so i like to take stuff as far as I can myself if I have the time. The other thing is that this is a bit of an intermittent problem so will be very hard for a good mechanic to diagnose. If I can get some good feedback from some guys who run these cars, I can watch for symptoms over time that match up.
    ******************************
    Jon Hook

    Stars Luxury Limousine Services - North Bay, Ontario
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  5. #5
    Senior Member Jon Hook's Avatar
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    I removed and cleaned out the idle control valve as you mentioned - it was dirty. I also cleaned the EGR valve since I had to take it off anyhow to get the other undone. I'll put it all back together tomorrow and see what happens after that.
    ******************************
    Jon Hook

    Stars Luxury Limousine Services - North Bay, Ontario
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    2000 White 120" stretch AHA
    2003 Black Lincoln Town Car
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  6. #6

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    Let us know if that works.

    If not I'd point to the starter. Your starter might need additonal heat shielding, as it may be getting to hot after the engine warms up. Or, you may need a new starter completely.
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  7. #7
    Senior Member Jon Hook's Avatar
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    Sorry, the starter cranks fine, no problem there, it will whip it over, but engine won't run. I have put the pieces back on now, I'll know more as I drive the car over the next few days. There was a fair bit of crap in both valves though.
    ******************************
    Jon Hook

    Stars Luxury Limousine Services - North Bay, Ontario
    www.Book-A-Van.com
    www.NorthBayBlackCarService.ca
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by joel yee View Post
    Try cleaning the idle control valve located on rear of engine.

    http://www.ehow.com/how_4763388_clea...rol-valve.html


    Similiar to this picture.
    Joel beat me to it, my 2000 LTC did the exact same thing, I replaced the ICC and the problem was fixed.

  9. #9

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    The Idle Air Control Valve or Air Bypass Valve.....Everyone calls it something different....will cause syptoms like this.
    Sometimes you can give it a good couple of whack with a screwdriver handle or smal hammer and it will free up.

    They also freeze up in winter from moisture that freezes the plunger in it. Lots of times they do the opposite of this one. They will not stay running when cold on first start on day but fine for rest of day.

    A good test to see if this is the problem is wo hold the gas pedal down about 1/3 of the way. It should keep running until you let off pedal if the IAC is stuck.

  10. #10

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    I would check your fuel pump or crank sensor.

  11. #11

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    You can easily check crank sensor and fuel pump but if you hold the pedal down about half way when it does this and it starts.....you can rule out both and it is prob the IAC.
    The crank sensors usually go out for good after you shut off a hot car and no further starts. BUT, sometimes they get warm and die then restart when they are cool. GM 4 and v-6s love to do this.
    For fuel you can screw a pressure gauge (need smaller adapter for ford) onto fuel rail to see if it has as least 25-30 psi. Many people jsut depress the valve and se if gas shoots up...BE CAREFUL on hot engines and don't be smoking if you do this.

  12. #12

    Arrow It won't go

    Let's see, you need fuel and spark to make it go. My thought is the fuel pump or the fuel pump relay. Either can reset after cooling down. The relay is a easy swap out, should be in the engine compartment relay box. Maybe if your lucky a $10.00 fix. I wish you luck and let us know how things work out.

    Good Luck

  13. #13
    Senior Member Jon Hook's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StretchFixer View Post

    A good test to see if this is the problem is wo hold the gas pedal down about 1/3 of the way. It should keep running until you let off pedal if the IAC is stuck.
    Just an update for those who are interested... as I mentioned, I did take this valve off and clean it. I have driven the car a few times this week. It is much better than it was. I was failing every time I restarted it. This week it only failed twice (still annoying) however, if I turn the key and it acts up, I wait a second and then try again with the pedal about 1/3 down and it stays running. I just let it rev for a couple seconds and then let off and all is good. So, thanks to you guys I have not got stranded anywhere I will order a new valve and replace it as so far, everything seems to point to that and such is the feedback I am getting here. Thanks.
    ******************************
    Jon Hook

    Stars Luxury Limousine Services - North Bay, Ontario
    www.Book-A-Van.com
    www.NorthBayBlackCarService.ca
    www.WeddingLimousineNorthBay.ca

    2000 White 120" stretch AHA
    2003 Black Lincoln Town Car
    2008 Black Lincoln Town Car
    2011 Mercedes Sprinter

  14. #14
    Senior Member Jon Hook's Avatar
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    Well about 2 weeks ago I replaced the idle air control valve with a new one. Car seemed to be running fine. Yesterday, I went out in the morning, drove the car about 5 miles, shut it off and wouldn't restart. It starts, revs, quits. Twice. Then just cranks - no start. I think I will change the fuel relay and see where that takes me.
    ******************************
    Jon Hook

    Stars Luxury Limousine Services - North Bay, Ontario
    www.Book-A-Van.com
    www.NorthBayBlackCarService.ca
    www.WeddingLimousineNorthBay.ca

    2000 White 120" stretch AHA
    2003 Black Lincoln Town Car
    2008 Black Lincoln Town Car
    2011 Mercedes Sprinter

  15. #15

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    When this happens again turn your key on and listen for your fuel pump cycling on. Also if this isn't happening all the time what is your fuel level in the tank when it happens verse when its not.

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