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DFW Transit
September 13th, 2009, 08:19 PM
I have a similar problem on two of my 2007 Town Cars (not stretched) - occasionally AC will not blow out of upper vents. Rear vents (passenger) are fine, but when it is set to upper vents (face) only floor vents engage. Went ahead and replaced the AC Head unit on one of the cars, still occasionally I will need to restart the car for the upper vents to kick in. If I specifically select floor, sometimes upper vents will kick in for a few minutes. Sounds like a faulty AC head unit, but it was replaced a month ago. Dealer obviously can't diagnose the issue since it is not happening all the time. Any ideas? Not a huge problem since rear air is fine, but the drivers complain that air is not blowing in their face.

PTLimoNC
September 13th, 2009, 09:04 PM
I have the same problem with a couple of my cars. I have had one at the dealership a couple of times, and they have yet to fix the problem. I just found out the other day that there is a technical service bulletin on this problem. I will have to go back and look tomorrow, but the best I remember, the problem is at the blend door. I think the foam seal is bad. I ran across this last week when I had a car overheating because the fan motor was bad. There is also a tsb on this. Both will be fixed free of charge, as long as the car is still under warranty. I will post a copy of both tomorrow.

DFW Transit
September 13th, 2009, 09:10 PM
Thanks Jerry! I will check back tomorrow. I might have my dealer fix it on all of my TCs before the warranty runs out.

CapTrans1
September 13th, 2009, 10:09 PM
I've been told that this problem dates back to the 95-96 LTC's. There is a problem with the actuator that is supposed to be an easy fix through the dealer.... Supposedly.

DFW Transit
September 13th, 2009, 11:37 PM
I am not a mechanic, but I think older TCs had vacuum control doors and the current body style has electronic door controls, which made me suspect a head unit being a problem in the first place.

BLVD Limo
September 14th, 2009, 05:23 AM
Haven't noticed the problem in either the 2007 stretch or the 2006 sedan. At least if it happens, now I have an idea.

steve_b
September 19th, 2009, 09:57 AM
A very common problem, there are five hvac door actuators on the TC, two temp door one inlet door, one defrost door, and one floor/panel door. The dash will have to be removed the replace the defrost and floor/panel actuators, about a half day job. sounds like the floor/panel actuator is intermittently failing. All of the actuators have been updated and the part numbers start with 9W1Z. An even more common problem is that they make a noise that sounds kind of like boiling water from the dash area, and will continue to make noise for several minutes after the engine is shut off. Hope this helps.

Steve

CapTrans1
September 19th, 2009, 12:52 PM
An even more common problem is that they make a noise that sounds kind of like boiling water from the dash area, and will continue to make noise for several minutes after the engine is shut off. Hope this helps.

Steve


This is a Ford problem. The Crown Vics I drive for work do the exact same thing.

BLVD Limo
September 19th, 2009, 01:39 PM
Climate control...window up or down?

STR8-FLSH
September 19th, 2009, 05:13 PM
A very common problem, there are five hvac door actuators on the TC, two temp door one inlet door, one defrost door, and one floor/panel door. The dash will have to be removed the replace the defrost and floor/panel actuators, about a half day job. sounds like the floor/panel actuator is intermittently failing. All of the actuators have been updated and the part numbers start with 9W1Z. An even more common problem is that they make a noise that sounds kind of like boiling water from the dash area, and will continue to make noise for several minutes after the engine is shut off. Hope this helps.

Steve
I just had all five actuators on my limo replaced. Thank god it was covered under warranty.

BLVD Limo
September 20th, 2009, 12:49 AM
yeah...so driving my 2007 LTC stretch this evening, it seems like this problem has started with me.

Now, since this is the first mechanical issue that I have had, how do I go about getting in warrantied? Do I just take it to Ford, or is it something I am going to need to go through the coachbuilder first? It is a Ford problem and not a conversion problem. If it were a sedan, this would be an easy enough answer. I am just unsure about it being a stretch if I just take it straight in to Ford.

Thanks in advance for the help.

steve_b
September 20th, 2009, 10:21 AM
This is a Ford Issue, not a coach builder issue.

Hopefully you can get better service from the Ford Dealer(s) in your area than I get from the Dealers here in Seattle. Good luck.

Steve

Celebritylimoky
September 20th, 2009, 10:46 AM
I have a similar problem on two of my 2007 Town Cars (not stretched) - occasionally AC will not blow out of upper vents. Rear vents (passenger) are fine, but when it is set to upper vents (face) only floor vents engage. Went ahead and replaced the AC Head unit on one of the cars, still occasionally I will need to restart the car for the upper vents to kick in. If I specifically select floor, sometimes upper vents will kick in for a few minutes. Sounds like a faulty AC head unit, but it was replaced a month ago. Dealer obviously can't diagnose the issue since it is not happening all the time. Any ideas? Not a huge problem since rear air is fine, but the drivers complain that air is not blowing in their face.

I have the same problem on my 07 TC sedan, just noticed it yesterday. I will be taking it to the dealer tomorrow.

PTLimoNC
September 20th, 2009, 09:17 PM
Sorry it took me so long to get back here, but we have been slammed! I have looked, and I can't find the tsb on the "mind of it's own" vent problem yet. I will keep looking the next couple of days.

However, I did run across these that may be of help to some, as I know we have had the same problems:



TSB 09-6-4
04/06/09
CLICKING/POPPING NOISE BEHIND CENTER OF
DASH - VEHICLES BUILT ON OR BEFORE 8/8/2008
LINCOLN:
2004-2009 Town Car
This article supersedes TSB 08-12-11 to update the vehicle model years, Service Procedure and add a production fix date.
ISSUE
Some 2004-2009 Lincoln Town Car vehicles built on or before 8/8/2008 may exhibit a clicking or popping noise from the center of the dash area when the Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC) is on, engine running, and even up to several minutes after the vehicle has been shut off. This may be caused by either the Panel/Defrost and/or the Floor Door mode actuators rapidly cycling back and forth during EATC operation. This condition does not affect defroster or heater performance.
ACTION
Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
NOTE IT IS CRITICAL THAT THE NOISE BE ISOLATED TO EITHER OF THE IDENTIFIED ACTUATORS BEFORE PROCEEDING. OTHER ACTUATOR NOISES, NORMAL A/C REFRIGERANT PRESSURE EQUALIZATION OR COOLANT/AIR IN THE HEATER CORE WILL NOT BE CORRECTED BY THE COMPLETION OF THIS PROCEDURE.
1. With the EATC in Automatic Mode and active (engine temperature warm enough to allow normal EATC operation), verify that the noise is being caused by either of the two affected plenum chamber actuators, by turning engine off and listening for a clicking or popping noise in the plenum area. The noise may be heard for up to 2 minutes after engine key off. If either of the two identified actuators are not the cause of the noise, do not proceed and continue with normal diagnostics.
2. Refer to the Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 412-01 to replace both plenum chamber actuators with updated parts.


Parts Block
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage
IMPORTANT : Warranty coverage limits/policies are not altered by a TSB. Warranty coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part.
OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME

090604A 2004-2009 Town Car: 2.9 Hrs.
Replace Both Plenum
Chamber Actuators,
Includes Time To Remove
And Install Instrument
Panel (Do Not Use With
19700D, 19700D7,
19700D5, 04320A,
04320B, 19680A, 18805E)
DEALER CODING
CONDITION
BASIC PART NO. CODE
19E616 30

PTLimoNC
September 20th, 2009, 09:23 PM
Part 2 - This is the one you definitely need to have fixed asap. One of my Town Cars was in Augusta, GA (300 miles from here) a few weeks back when ours went out. Had to scramble, but the dealer there (Kudos to Bobby Jones Ford) got us going in a couple of hours. Great service dept!

TSB 07-9-5
05/14/07
ENGINE OVERHEATING - POOR AC PERFORMANCE
FORD:
2006-2007 Crown Victoria
LINCOLN:
2006-2007 Town Car
MERCURY:
2006-2007 Grand Marquis
This article supersedes TSB 06-20-3 to update the Service Procedure.
ISSUE
Some 2006-2007 Crown Victoria, Grand Marquis and Lincoln Town Car vehicles built before 8/31/2006 may experience intermittent engine overheating and/or poor A/C performance due to an inoperative engine cooling fan motor.
ACTION
Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
WARNING IF EQUIPPED WITH A FIRE SUPPRESSION SYSTEM, THE BACKUP POWER SUPPLY MUST BE DEPLETED BEFORE LIFTING THE VEHICLE.
SEE WORKSHOP MANUAL (WSM), SECTION 419-03 FOR DETAILS.
Verify proper cooling fan operation, and if required, replace the cooling fan with a revised motor and fan assembly. Refer to the appropriate WSM, Section 303-03 for Cooling Fan Motor and Shroud Replacement. If the fan is inoperative, replacing the thermostat will not resolve this issue.


Parts Block
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage
IMPORTANT : Warranty coverage limits/policies are not altered by a TSB. Warranty coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part.
OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME

070905A 2006-2007 Crown Victoria, 0.9 Hr.
Grand Marquis, Town Car:
Replace The Engine
Cooling Fan, Includes
Time To Diagnose Fan
(Do Not Use With 8621A,
8621B)
DEALER CODING
CONDITION
BASIC PART NO. CODE
8C607 30

PTLimoNC
September 20th, 2009, 09:26 PM
Part 3


TSB 06-21-19
10/30/06
HEATER CORE LEAKAGE AND ELECTROLYSIS (INFORMATION ONLY)
FORD:
1997-2002 Contour
1997-2007 Crown Victoria, Mustang, Taurus
2000-2007 Focus
2002-2005 Thunderbird
2005-2007 Five Hundred, Freestyle
2006-2007 Fusion
1997-1999 F-250 Light Duty
1997-2003 Windstar
1997-2007 E-Series, Expedition, Explorer,
F-150, F-53 Motorhome Chassis,
F-Super Duty, Ranger
2000-2005 Excursion
2001-2003 Explorer Sport
2001-2007 Escape, Explorer Sport Trac
2004 F-150 Heritage
2004-2007 Freestar
2005-2007 Escape Hybrid
1999-2007 F-650, F-750
LINCOLN:
1997-2002 Continental
1997-2007 Town Car
2000-2006 Lincoln LS
2006 Zephyr
2007 MKZ
1998-2007 Navigator
2002-2003 Blackwood
2003-2005 Aviator
2006-2007 Mark LT
MERCURY:
1997-2002 Cougar, Mystique
1997-2005 Sable
1997-2007 Grand Marquis
2005-2007 Montego
2006-2007 Milan
1997-2002 Villager
1997-2007 Mountaineer
2005-2007 Mariner
2006-2007 Mariner Hybrid
This article supersedes TSB 01-15-6 to update the vehicle model years and Service Procedure.
ISSUE
The majority of repeat heater core leaks are due to high flow rate or use of poor quality coolant. However, electrolysis should also be checked, especially when repeat repairs have occurred.
ACTION
If the heater core is leaking, review the location of the leakage and check the condition of the coolant.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Review the location of the leakage and check the condition of the coolant:
a. If leaks are found on the inlet (or outlet) tubes entering / exiting the heater core, it is most likely due to due to high flow rate - replace the heater core and install a restrictor in the heater hose closest to the engine block, reference Workshop Manual, Section 412.

b. If leaks are found in the body of the heater core itself, and does not appear to be the result of physical damage like contact or puncture, check the coolant for possible electrolysis.

Testing For Electrolysis
Check for voltage in the cooling system by touching the negative contact of a voltmeter to the battery ground or a known good ground and suspend the positive lead in the coolant, making sure it is in contact with the coolant but not touching any metal part of the radiator or cooling system. Both AC and DC voltages must be checked. Vehicles normally have DC voltages; however, a faulty engine block heater or faulty diode in the alternator can produce AC voltages. It is understood that coolant is lost due to heater core failure but try to obtain a voltage reading on the old coolant in the engine block before addition to or replacement of. To keep more coolant from exiting the heater core clamp off heater core lines and measure coolant in the engine block. Try not to dilute the original coolant with new coolant during testing if possible.
1. Determine whether coolant condition is acceptable.
a. Remove both cables from the battery and ensure they do not contact each other or the vehicle.
b. Touch negative lead of voltmeter to engine ground and positive lead in the coolant.

NOTE POSITIVE TEST PROBE IS IN THE COOLANT FOR TESTING.
c. Check the voltage in the cooling system. If less than or equal to 0.4 volts (V) OK, reconnect battery cables and proceed to Step 2.
d. If greater than 0.4 V, flush cooling system thoroughly.
e. Recheck voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V.
f. Reconnect battery cables.
g. Refill the system with appropriate Motorcraft® engine coolant.
2. Check for loose or missing grounds at static conditions.
a. Turn off all accessories. Turn ignition on but do not start engine.
b. Test with ground probe to battery ground, engine ground, and vehicle ground sequentially.
c. Voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V on all grounds OK.
d. Any one greater than 0.4 V, check and clean ground cable connections.
e. Check accessories without using the on off switch on the vehicle instrument panel, use a jumper wire to ground.
f. Plug in engine block heater, if equipped, and test.
g. Recheck voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V.
h. Unplug engine block heater, if equipped.

3. Check for loose, missing, or inadequate grounds.
a. Test with ground probe to battery ground, engine ground, and vehicle ground sequentially.
b. Crank engine but do not start.
c. Monitor voltage while cranking. less than or equal to 0.4 V OK
d. If greater than 0.4 V, ground or repair starter.
e. Start engine and run at about 2000 rpm.
f. Turn on all accessories including those customer only uses occasionally such as CB radio, cell phone, etc.
g. Test with ground probe to battery ground, engine ground, and vehicle ground sequentially.
h. Voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V OK
i. If greater than 0.4 V, turn off one item at a time until V drops to less than or equal to 0.4 V. Repair ground to the accessory just identified.
j. Recheck voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V
k. Turn the DVOM to AC volts.
l. Check for ANY AC voltage greater than 0.4.
m. If any AC voltage is present then try turning off each accessory one at a time including blower motor and any fan motors.
n. If AC voltage is still present then shut engine off and remove B+ from the alternator and tape it up then retest.
o. If voltage drop is gradual to less than or equal to 0.4 V, the ground straps may simply be overloaded by added accessories. Test by using heavy gauge jumper to ground. If indicated, install heavier gauge ground strap(s) and recheck.

NOTE If vehicle is equipped with electric cooling fans, be sure they cycle during this testing and monitor voltage when they are on and when off.
CAUTION DO NOT GROUND HEATER CORE. IF THE HEATER CORE IS GROUNDED, YOU HAVE PROVIDED THE ELECTROLOSIS A PATH THROUGH THE HEATER CORE. THIS WOULD CAUSE THE HEATER CORE TO BECOME AN ANODE OR RECEIVER AND IT WOULD PROMOTE THE ELECTROLOSIS, OR ANY STRAY VOLTAGE TO USE THE COOLANT AS THE GROUND PATH.
4. Refill the engine cooling system, reference Workshop Manual, Section 303-03.
NOTE IF THE HEAT OUTPUT IS INSUFFICIENT, OR THE ENGINE DOES NOT REACH NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURES, VERIFY PROPER THERMOSTAT OPERATION AND REPEAT PROCEDURE IF REQUIRED.
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage
DEALER CODING
CONDITION
BASIC PART NO. CODE
18476 42

DFW Transit
September 27th, 2009, 02:43 PM
So, I finally got around to mess with that car and apparently AC stopped working all together on it. (blows hot air). Ran a diagnostic test on it (OFF + Floor and then press Auto). Got error codes : 12, 64, 24 and 77. 24 means actuator doors are bad as far as I know, but what are the other 3? Anyone?

I am suspecting that I have two separate issues.

a. Bad actuator door (s)
b. Bad fuse or relay maybe? Does anyone know if there a fuse that controls AC compressor or relay? Stealership has no idea believe or not and told me to find my owner's manual. Problem is, I can't find a single owner's manual from any of our Town Cars. :) We use glove compartments to store fire extinguishers and as soon as the new car comes in we take the owner's manual out and who knows what happens to them.

BLVD Limo
September 27th, 2009, 08:16 PM
Jerry,

Did you ever find the TSB for this problem? Thanks!

DFW Transit
September 27th, 2009, 08:24 PM
I actually found an owner's manual in one of the 10 passenger limos. Replaced one of the larger relays and AC kicked in right away. Still want to know what those error codes mean.

BLVD Limo
September 27th, 2009, 08:29 PM
I actually found an owner's manual in one of the 10 passenger limos. Replaced one of the larger relays and AC kicked in right away. Still want to know what those error codes mean.

Relays are a common, common, common problem with the ATC in Lincolns. The AC is always cycling on and off whenever the car is running with the AUTO control on and the A/C button lit. In fact, most of the time you can tap on the relay and it will kick in.

DFW Transit
September 27th, 2009, 08:45 PM
What about the fuel pump relay? The same car didn't start Wednesday morning for no reason. Luckily I had another vehicle a mile away, so we made the pick-up on time. Towed it to the dealership immediately and they replaced the relay, fuel pump, fuel filter and $500 later (including towing) it was back on the road the same day. Now, I am thinking it might have some electrical problems that causes random relays to fry. Maybe that pump didn't need to be replaced after all. It is an '07 with 85K or so miles. ...just one of those weeks....

BLVD Limo
September 28th, 2009, 12:18 AM
What about the fuel pump relay? The same car didn't start Wednesday morning for no reason. Luckily I had another vehicle a mile away, so we made the pick-up on time. Towed it to the dealership immediately and they replaced the relay, fuel pump, fuel filter and $500 later (including towing) it was back on the road the same day. Now, I am thinking it might have some electrical problems that causes random relays to fry. Maybe that pump didn't need to be replaced after all. It is an '07 with 85K or so miles. ...just one of those weeks....

Only thing I can say is never, never, never let your gas tank go below a quarter. The gasoline helps cool the fuel pump. If the fuel pump is exposed, it starts to heat up and will result in it going out quicker. This has been a common problem as of late with people not being able to afford to buy a tank of gas at one time...they only put $10 in and that is when the gauge starts blinking.

Nite2RememberLimo
December 17th, 2009, 04:01 PM
Any help would be appreciated. Problem with heat blowing out the passenger side vents at the same time cold air is blowing out the driver side vents. Both dual controls set to cold, happens intermittent and is a pain in the a** when pax are on board. 2006 T/C Sedan. Could it possibly be an acuator door? or more likely the HVAC control panel? Out of warranty so I would like to try and figure this one out on my own before I go to dealership. Thanks in advance for any input.

Jim30
December 17th, 2009, 08:13 PM
Yep...that is what it is. I had the exact same thing happen on my 2005 Towncar except driver side was getting heat & passenger side & rear was blowing AC ( in cold weather, LOL).

Mine was Control module & actuator motor. It's not a cheap bill (if you don't have your own mechanics) because they have to take the entire dash apart.

It sucks! Car was down 2 days on top of everything else!!!

Jim

DFW Transit
December 17th, 2009, 09:35 PM
I got mine at http://www.silverstatefordparts.com for about $170 back in June. Right now the same part is $270 on their site and $505 for 2006 model (mine is 2007). You just need to figure out the correct part number and search for it on the internet. I was pretty sure that 03 - '09 use the same climate control unit, but I might be wrong. Try Ebay, here is one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/03-07-LINCOLN-TOWN-CAR-CLIMATE-CONTROL-A-C-CONTROL_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3ef3ffcbbaQQite mZ270381599674QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5f Accessories

I sold mine on Ebay for $75 after we figured out that it wasn't the head unit causing the problem, but the actuator doors. By the way, my mechanic spent a total of about 15 minutes installing it and charged me $30 for it. It seemed very easy. Remove the two screws above the dash cluster, get a flat head screwdriver (he actually had a plastic tool he used for it) and slowly pry the dash off trying not to break the clips. There might be other screws by the central stack, can't remember now....

Hope this helps...

Nite2RememberLimo
December 17th, 2009, 11:40 PM
Yep...that is what it is. I had the exact same thing happen on my 2005 Towncar except driver side was getting heat & passenger side & rear was blowing AC ( in cold weather, LOL).

Mine was Control module & actuator motor. It's not a cheap bill (if you don't have your own mechanics) because they have to take the entire dash apart.

It sucks! Car was down 2 days on top of everything else!!!

Jim

Were you positive that both parts failed? or were you playing it safe replacing both? Maybe I should start with a used control head and see if that works before I tear down the dash. What do you think?

Nite2RememberLimo
December 17th, 2009, 11:42 PM
I got mine at http://www.silverstatefordparts.com for about $170 back in June. Right now the same part is $270 on their site and $505 for 2006 model (mine is 2007). You just need to figure out the correct part number and search for it on the internet. I was pretty sure that 03 - '09 use the same climate control unit, but I might be wrong. Try Ebay, here is one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/03-07-LINCOLN-TOWN-CAR-CLIMATE-CONTROL-A-C-CONTROL_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3ef3ffcbbaQQite mZ270381599674QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5f Accessories

I sold mine on Ebay for $75 after we figured out that it wasn't the head unit causing the problem, but the actuator doors. By the way, my mechanic spent a total of about 15 minutes installing it and charged me $30 for it. It seemed very easy. Remove the two screws above the dash cluster, get a flat head screwdriver (he actually had a plastic tool he used for it) and slowly pry the dash off trying not to break the clips. There might be other screws by the central stack, can't remember now....

Hope this helps...

Was yours doing the same thing I am talking about? Did the acuator doors fix the problem for good?

Jim30
December 18th, 2009, 08:55 AM
Were you positive that both parts failed? or were you playing it safe replacing both? Maybe I should start with a used control head and see if that works before I tear down the dash. What do you think?

Well, that is what was replaced on mine and I have a pretty good mechanic who does not steer me wrong or overcharge me for things. From my understanding this is a common problem with the 04-07 model towncars. At least that is what my mechanic said.

Jim

mrslimolady
May 21st, 2010, 09:36 AM
So I have the same problem with the bubbling sound and the door open and closing on all my vent doors. Now my problem is with the fan... I can't turn the darn thing off. No matter what position I set the unit on or off the fan continues to run!!!!!!!! I have 75,000 miles on it... warrenty?>??

DFW Transit
May 21st, 2010, 10:15 AM
Mrslimolady, probably a blower motor resistor/controller. $40 part. Half an hour labor to replace. You can see on the left side of the firewall. Part was out of stock nationwide for 3 months this winter. I had one Town Car down for two weeks waiting for the part to come in, so I finally broke down, went to junk yard and pulled one off a wrecked limousine (still had its permits on the windshield)..worked like a charm. Junk yard knew the part was out of stock at the dealerships and they charged me $50 for used :(

JohnDnBiloxi
May 21st, 2010, 10:25 AM
So I have the same problem with the bubbling sound and the door open and closing on all my vent doors. Now my problem is with the fan... I can't turn the darn thing off. No matter what position I set the unit on or off the fan continues to run!!!!!!!! I have 75,000 miles on it... warrenty?>??

I had the same problem with our H2, it was the fan control modual. Hopefully on your LTC it'll be cheaper than it was for our H2. 2 minutes to replace it, but cost $200. lol Good Luck!